![]() Canon 5DIII, Canon 11-24mm f/4 lens, ISO 100, f/16, 1/250 second, focus stack multiple exposure blend for depth of field. For the image below, I was lucky enough to capture the sun rising and the crescent moon setting an ultra-wide lens allowed me to include both within the image frame, and stopping down to f/11 created a crisp starburst. When working with high-quality lenses, I find that f/11 usually gives me a starburst of adequate quality while at the same time maximizing overall image sharpness, although sometimes I’ll stop down a little bit more to enhance the starburst. So, when choosing your aperture, you are trying to find the right balance between a crisp and bold starburst effect, and minimizing the sharpness-reducing effects of diffraction. Typically, a small aperture such as f/11, f/16, or f/22 is necessary to produce an attractive burst the smaller the aperture the better the effect, although you may want to avoid extreme apertures such as f/16 or f/22 because of diffraction (this same optical effect that produces the starburst effect also reduces overall image sharpness at small apertures). The smaller the aperture you use, the more pronounced the effect. As you stop down your lens and select smaller aperture, the blades of the diaphragm come together to form a polygon shape, which is what creates the star-shaped streaks radiating from the light source. An optical phenomenon called diffraction causes the starburst effect as light passes through a small aperture, it is diffracted (or spread out) across the lens’ aperture blades. You won’t get a starburst effect if your aperture is at its widest setting, because at the widest setting the aperture diaphragm is shaped like a circle. Use a small aperture to create the starburst effect
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